Mountains

Food of the mountains: Stinging nettle (Zatsod)

Food of the mountains: Stinging nettle (Zatsod)

People of the high mountains have traditionally gathered plants and herbs from the wild, which would then be carefully stored and consumed in winter. Most of this collection is for personal use and never for commercial purposes. In this story, Karma Sonam of Gya village of Ladakh tells us about the traditional technique for collection and storage of zatsod or stinging nettle. He also shares a recipe of zatsod thukpa.

ऊंचे पहाड़ों के समुदाय पारंपरिक रूप से जंगली पौधों और जड़ी-बूटियों की तलाश करते हैं, जिन्हें बाद में सावधानीपूर्वक संग्रहीत किया जाता है और सर्दियों में खाया जाता है। इस संग्रह का अधिकांश भाग व्यक्तिगत उपयोग के लिए था, न कि व्यावसायिक उद्देश्यों के लिए। इस कहानी में, लद्दाख के ग्या गाँव से कर्मा सोनम हमें बिच्छू बूटी के संग्रह की तकनीक के बारे में बताते हैं। वह स्थानीय सामग्रियों का उपयोग करके बनाई गई थुकपा की एक पारंपरिक रेसिपी भी साझा करते हैं।

This story was narrated, shot and edited by Karma Sonam.

यह कहानी कर्मा सोनम द्वारा सुनाई, शूट और संपादित की गई है।

1718 1052 Himkatha
भारत में पहली बार हिम तेंदुए की जनगणना कैसे की गई?

भारत में पहली बार हिम तेंदुए की जनगणना कैसे की गई?

अंतर्राष्ट्रीय हिम तेंदुआ दिवस 23 अक्टूबर को मनाया जाता है। भारत इस साल अपनी पहली हिम तेंदुए की जनगणना के नतीजे घोषित करेगा। यह परिणाम देश के हिमालयी क्षेत्रों में किए गए 4 साल के व्यापक अभ्यास पर आधारित है। यह विशाल अभ्यास देश के सुदूर ऊंचाई वाले क्षेत्रों में रहने वाले स्थानीय लोगों के समर्थन और भागीदारी के बिना पूरा नहीं किया जा सकता था।

वीडियो: समर्थ ज्योति
कथन: अक्षिता अशोकन
अनुवाद: सीमा बजाज
कैमरा ट्रैप छवियां: हिमाचल प्रदेश वन विभाग, नेचर कंजर्वेशन फाउंडेशन और स्नो लेपर्ड ट्रस्ट
फुटेज: तेंज़िन थुक्तान, मुनीब खन्यारी और अजय बिजूर
छवियाँ: हाई एल्टीट्यूड प्रोग्राम और प्रसेनजीत यादव
अतिरिक्त फ़ुटेज: ओपन प्लैनेट

2444 1360 Himkatha
The Sowa-Rigpa medicine system

The Sowa-Rigpa medicine system

In this episode of Himkatha Charcha, we spoke with Amchi Chhering Tashi of Hansa village in Spiti about the Sowa Rigpa medicine system which is being practiced in his family for at least four generations. We tried to center our conversation on the origin of this system and the deep knowledge it preserves about local plants. Amchi Chhering Tashi was interviewed by Dr. Mayank Kohli and Tanzin Thinley. Additional footage via. Open Planet (https://openplanet.org/)

हिमकथा चर्चा के इस एपिसोड में हमने स्पीति के हंसा गांव के अमची छेरिंग ताशी से सोवा रिग्पा चिकित्सा प्रणाली के बारे में बात की, जो उनके परिवार में कम से कम चार पीढ़ियों से चली आ रही है। हमने अपनी बातचीत को इस प्रणाली की उत्पत्ति और स्थानीय पौधों के बारे में इसके द्वारा संरक्षित गहन ज्ञान पर केंद्रित करने का प्रयास किया। अमची छेरिंग ताशी का इंटरव्यू डॉ. मयंक कोहली और तंजिन थिनले ने लिया। अतिरिक्त फुटेज ओपन प्लैनेट (https://openplanet.org/) के माध्यम से।

1200 668 Dr. Mayank Kohli
The Sowa-Rigpa medical tradition
Illustration: Peeyush Sekhsaria

The Sowa-Rigpa medical tradition

Sowa-Rigpa, also known as the Amchi system of medicine, is practiced in the high Himalayan region. It is also referred to as the Tibetan medicine system and is among the oldest existing knowledge systems in the world that relies on knowledge of ecology, especially plants. In an hour-long conversation with 71-year-old Amchi Chhering Tashi of Hansa village in Spiti we speak about the Sowa-Rigpa tradition. Here is a short excerpt of this interview.

Can you speak about the origins of the Sowa-Rigpa medical tradition?

Contrary to popular belief, Sowa-Rigpa is an ancient Indian knowledge system, not Tibetan. It is believed that when the Buddha gave his sermon on ending suffering at Vaishali in present day Bihar, there were many in attendance. The audience included many learned people including spiritual and celestial beings from different realms. Buddha delivered the discourse in Pali, but all those in attendance heard his message in their respective languages. Since everyone heard it differently, it got recorded and disseminated in different ways – as Ayurveda across the Indian subcontinent, Sowa-Rigpa across the Himalayas and Tibet, and Yunani in Central Asia. That is how this knowledge spread across different cultures. It was later translated into Sanskrit at Nalanda. A part of this knowledge system was at risk of being lost due to the predominance of Ayurveda, but was preserved by the Tibetans. So, while Sowa-Rigpa originated in India, it was preserved and nurtured in Tibet. Lotsawa Rinchen Zangpo – the Great Translator of Buddhism – translated these works to the local Bhoti dialect in his sixth incarnation.

Since when has this system been practiced in your family? 

Every village in Spiti – from Losar to Lari – has at least one family that practices this system. Villagers help with the collection of medicinal plants and in preparing medicines. Historically, each village had an Amchi because connectivity between villages was poor and this was an essential service that all villagers needed. No fees are charged by the Amchi; it is offered as a public service to anyone seeking medical attention.

About our family, my father was a very learned man. He knew exactly what treatment is described on which page in the handbook (pointing to the old medical scriptures placed before him). I never met my grandfather, but he might have passed on this knowledge to my father. While I don’t know how and when my forefathers began practicing, I have with me several old scribbled notes that belonged to them. My grandfather, in the 1930s, also received a letter from the then Governor of Punjab which I preserve to this day. Our family has been in this practice for at least a few hundred years.

Amchi's collecting parts of plant for medicinal purpose | Photo: Mayank Kohli

How did you get inducted into becoming an Amchi?

My father started training me since I was in sixth grade. I had to attend school, manage a lot of the house work and focus on this too. I was the only male child and my sisters were already married by then. I had little interest

in learning about plants and reading the handbook. But my father was very persistent. He taught me patiently. Maybe that is how I learnt whatever little I did. Had I taken interest from the beginning, I might have become a better Amchi.

One can learn everything about the practice in six years. But my father taught me daily and he inculcated in me a habit of reading these scriptures every day, even if it is only for just five minutes. These scriptures that I possess, are nearly 600-years old. Reading them daily has been very helpful.

What is the process of diagnosis and prescribing medication?

There are four fundamental books that form the basis of this practice, which need to be learnt by heart by any Amchi. Further there are four books explaining these fundamental principles in detail. Lastly, there are these scriptures (pointing to the old medical scripts placed before him) which are like a handbook. They explain the symptoms of every illness and contain details of its treatment and medication. We match the symptoms of every patient with the explanations in this handbook and follow its recommendation for prescribing treatment.

When a patient approaches me, I first check their pulse and sometimes their urine. I then match the description of the symptoms with those in the handbook. The handbook gives details of all the local plants and their medicinal values. It also suggests the proportion in which they should be mixed for a particular treatment. I always make all the medicines and test them on myself before I distribute them.

Any illness has two causes: first from accumulation of bad karma earned in one’s past lives, and second from an imbalance in what we consume (food, water, air etc.) from our general surroundings. An Amchi can cure illnesses caused by the latter; the former cannot be cured by medicine. While modern medicine addresses the symptoms of an illness, Sowa-Rigpa tries to address the root cause of it.

Amchi Chhering Tashi from Hansa village in Spiti | Photo: Tanzin Thinley

How and when are plants collected?

There is no fixed time for collection. We use different parts of a plant for treatment, and hence collection happens across seasons. We use the flowers of some plants, while we need seeds of some and roots of others. Generally, roots of a plant grow deep into the soil before autumn and that is when we collect roots, we will not collect them in any other season. Flowers will only be collected in spring once they have blossomed. There are clear rules on when and how different parts can be collected. A separate book describes locations of where plants can be found. For example, Aconitum spp. (Bhoan karpo) are mostly found on north-facing slopes and that is where we scout for them. Delphinium spp. (Lader mentok) is another invaluable plant that grows commonly in our landscape. Rhodiola spp. (Shrolo) is also found on north-facing slopes – there are three varieties found in Spiti: one with white flowers, one with red flowers, and one that grows tall. These details help us in collection.

The handbook also carries details of the medicinal values of these plants. For example, Rhodiola spp. cure lung infections while Aconitum spp. cure multiple ailments: flowers improve eyesight, their roots help our bones, the branches are good for our hands and legs while the stem of the plant is good for our skin. Meconopsis spp. (Landre mentok), Saussurea spp. (Kasturi kamal or Yuliang) and Trillium spp. (Nag chhatri) are mixed to make a very effective painkiller, even better than diclofenac sodium that is administered commonly. We are aware of all the medicinal qualities of many local plant species and we make use of them judiciously.

Is a change in climate patterns affecting the availability of medicinal plants? 

There was a time when collection of wild plants for commercial use was common. We had then spoken with the local administration to limit irresponsible collection. They acted swiftly and we are glad that the situation was handled effectively. We believe that Spiti produces sufficient plants to fulfil local needs. No matter how much medicine the people of Spiti consume, this land will produce plants and they will never exhaust. However, if we start exporting plants outside Spiti for commercial use, then we invite the risk of depleting this valuable resource. There is a finely balanced cycle of production and consumption, which we should not disturb. Variations in snowfall may marginally affect plant growth, but not so much as to disrupt this system.

What do you think about the sustenance of this practice in future?  

The practice is offered as a public service by the Amchi in each village. There is no financial benefit in the practice. In fact, we often incur expenses in the collection of plants and preparation of medicines. Our homes are always open to any patient seeking medical help.

Illustration: Nawang Tankhe

Sometimes I wonder that one must be stupid to offer such a service free-of-cost at a time when everyone runs after money. But then, I also remember that when I die, I will leave everything behind: land, family, even my own body. I will only be remembered for my integrity. That is what keeps me going. However, the local administration should consider providing basic financial support to practitioners so that they continue practicing this tradition.

This is a short excerpt and you can watch the full interview on our YouTube channel.

2241 1524 Dr. Mayank Kohli
Ladakh Pashmina

Ladakh Pashmina

The story of Ladakh Pashmina: The authentic, sustainable cashmere. A film by Munmun Dhalaria. (Language: English and Ladakhi with English subtitles)

2292 1072 Munmun Dhalaria
The dog and the wolf
Illustration: Nawang Tankhe

The dog and the wolf

The dog and the wolf are brothers. For long they had lived happily until one day jealousy got the better of them. Ask any herder, and they will tell you how it happened.

The dog and the wolf possessed qualities that helped them survive in the wild. The wolf was a stealthy runner who could run great distances, while the dog was gifted with the power of smell. Together, they complemented each other perfectly. The dog would sniff prey from a distance, while the wolf would then hunt down the prey by outrunning them. They would share the spoils from the hunt and barely did they go without food.  However, one question bothered them – how would they survive alone if the other was missing for some reason? So, both the dog and the wolf made a pact: to help each acquire the skill possessed by the other.

It was the wolf’s turn first. He was a very patient teacher. He taught the dog every trick he knew which had helped him run long and fast. With time the dog followed the wolf’s lessons and became a good runner. It was now the dog’s turn to teach the wolf the art of sniffing. The dog was slow in training the wolf, who was a good learner. Soon the wolf learnt to sniff out prey that were at short distances. The dog promised to teach the wolf the final tricks soon. But it was all a farce. When the wolf woke up the next morning, he was shattered to see that his brother had actually run away and made friends with a new companion. The dog had fled and made friends with the man, just so he wouldn’t have to share his prized skill with his brother.

Ever since, herders who rear livestock have kept guard dogs to protect them from being lifted. But wolves often manage to lift livestock, which herders believe, is an attempt to square off a deal that the dog left incomplete.

Illustration: Nawang Tankhe
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Spiti’s Richest Village

Spiti’s Richest Village

Morang was a hamlet of just five homes, but it was known far and wide not just in Spiti valley but even beyond. Thanks to Meme Chukpo. Meme Chukpo was the smartest trader of the region. He was also the richest man in the valley. He could sniff out an opportunity to make money where most others saw none. He sold yaks to the Changpas and the best Chumurti horses at the Lavi mela in Rampur Bushahr. He had traveled far and wide to trade. But Meme Chukpo had one festering fear. He was weary of people who came to his door seeking financial aid. Over time, he had devised an ingenious way to deal with such requests.

Each time he returned from a trip, he would look up to the sky. Now, if you have ever been to Spiti the first thing you might notice is how few clouds there are on most sunny days. There is barely a cloud or two in the bright blue sky. Meme Chukpo made it a habit to look for such lonely clouds. He would keep some money for domestic use and then dig a hole in the ground under the cloud and hide the rest of his money there. Surely this was the safest place to hide his treasures, and the easiest place to find it if he ever needed it. So busy had he been toiling away making money that he’d hardly ever noticed the magnificence of the rising sun, or the song of a whistling thrush, of flowers that flushed the valley in spring, or that of the slow movement of clouds in the sky.

Each time someone walked up to him seeking financial aid, Meme Chukpo would smile and say ‘I would have helped had there been some money in the house. I’m sorry, but I have none.’ He felt glad that he wasn’t lying after all. All his treasures were buried away under the cloud.

Meme Chukpo went through life working hard. Fortunately, he never faced a time when he had to fall back on the money he had buried under the cloud. But many years after he passed away some children accidentally found a pot of money in a pit under the ground. It was probably one of many pits that Meme Chukpo had dug around Morang.​

Some people still dig the soil around Morang hoping that they might find one of Meme Chukpo’s treasures that he’d buried under a cloud.

  • Meme is a title used by everyone to refer to their grandpa or an elderly man in Spiti.
  • Changpa is a term used to refer to the residents of Changthang – a region in the northern part of Tibet and the eastern part of Ladakh. Changpa are a nomadic community known to rear goats that produce the famous pashmina. They have had ancient trade links with people of Spiti.
  • Chumurti horse is a local breed of horse from Spiti. It is known to be a very sturdy variety, especially adapted for high altitudes.
  • Lavi mela is an annual trade fair that has been held in Rampur-Bushahr for many centuries. Trade fairs were and still are very popular across Himachal Pradesh.
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The Lonely Tree
Illustration: Peeyush S

The Lonely Tree

Young Bishen Singh’s dreams were finally coming true. He had just passed his college exams and landed a government job as a school teacher. He had always wished for it. There was only one challenge though, his first posting was in Kaza. Spiti was still part of the State of Punjab then, and Kaza only found an occasional mention in government reports. There were a lot of myths surrounding Spiti mostly because so few people had heard of the place, let alone visit it. In those days the bus only went up to Manali after which one had to walk across the Rohtang La, then walk the long stretch from Gramphu to Batal and finally cross the Kunzum La. A very, very long walk of over 100 km.  And after all this walking, you only reached Losar. Kaza was another 60 km away. The travel took over a week.

Bishen was partly sad about leaving his family back in Punjab. But he was also terribly excited for the new adventure he was about to set out on. He had always wanted to explore the mountains and this was his chance. He had packed all his stuff, including a lot of woolens, in a single sturdy cloth bag. He also had one bag just for food that could see him through his long walk to Spiti. Bishen left 10 days before his joining date hoping to reach Kaza a few days before his first day at school.

The walk from Gramphu was a pleasant one. He crossed a patch of birch forest at Dorney nalla. He couldn’t recollect seeing so many birch trees in a single place before. There were so many waterfalls to admire that one hardly noticed the distance. His pace dropped every few kilometers as he was in awe of the landscape. It was also early summer and Gaddi herders were setting up camp. Gaddis are always glad to receive an unexpected guest who brings them news from new places. The first few evenings were spent at different Gaddi camps, where the routine was somewhat fixed. Bishen would be welcomed with a piping hot cup of tea followed by rotis drowned in ghee and roti-khadi – all made from goat milk. Bishen had enjoyed his walk from Gramphu to Batal. But the walk from here on was going to be a lonely one since Gaddis only camped up to this point and did not enter Spiti. It took Bishen two full days to summit Kunzum La and then climb down to Losar, the first village in Spiti.

The first thing Bishen noticed when he started descending Kunzum La was how bare the landscape was. The waterfalls were all gone and even the trees began to disappear. By the time he reached Losar, he was struggling to spot a single tree. Bishen suddenly felt as if he had set foot on a different planet. His pace dropped again, but this time in shock. He was struggling to wrap his head around why these massive mountains were without any greenery. Had someone robbed them of it? He couldn’t imagine living in a place like this, that too so far from home. He suddenly felt like he was stuck without anywhere to escape. As he reached the village of Sumling just 15 km from his final destination Kaza, his eyes fell on a lonely willow tree.

Illustration: Peeyush S

This full-grown tree stood in all its majesty almost in defiance with the otherwise treeless landscape. Bishen felt like he had met a long-lost friend. His eyes welled up and he couldn’t hold himself back. He dropped all his luggage and ran towards the tree. He hugged the tree tightly and sobbed loudly, ‘My friend I have been forced to come this far just so I can keep the hearth burning back home, but what ill luck has fallen upon you? Who cursed you to come to this place?’

Hearing Bishen’s loud sobs, several curious villagers gathered around to see what was happening. But none had the heart to disturb the conversation between two long-lost friends.

  • Kaza is the main town of Spiti and the headquarters of Spiti sub-division.
  • Gramphu and Batal are locations on the road from Manali to Kaza.
  • Birch is a thin-leaved deciduous hardwood tree. The bark usually peels horizontally in thin sheets, especially on young trees. These sheets were traditionally used as paper in many high mountain regions. Several holy scriptures have been preserved by writing on such sheets.
  • Dorney nalla is a patch where one can still find a lot of birch trees on the way from Manali to Kaza.
  • Sumling is a beautiful village on the right bank of the Spiti river.
  • Willow is a tree with long thin branches and often grows near water.
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The Nettle Army

The Nettle Army

In summer, there is hardly any place that can match up to the beauty of Lahaul. Agricultural fields set within a carpet of wild flowers, waterfalls of every size, the majestic Chandrabhaga river flowing in all her majesty with villages along the valley. It was no wonder then that the eyes of invaders fell on this beautiful valley. They were secretly hoping to establish themselves in one village and then mount an attempt to establish themselves across the entire valley. But where could they start from?

A small group of spies set out to find a suitable village that could serve as their base. After much scouring they agreed on the village of Gushal. This village had table lands with fields of agriculture that could feed an entire army. Water was bountiful and the village received good sunlight in both summer and winter. The spies decided that the army could sneak in from the peaks across the village, and take everyone by surprise. The plan was finalized and a handful of soldiers set out to mount an attack on foot, establish themselves and then bring in the rest of their forces.

This small group of men marched straight into the patch of stinging nettle. They crouched and crawled in order to remain out of sight. In the bargain, they’d rub themselves entirely against the nettle bushes. It was only a matter of time before rashes erupted. In a matter of minutes, the entire group was on the floor scratching to soothe their itch.

Gushal, like most other villages, was richly covered by wild plants and grasses. Among them were dense patches of stinging nettle. While nettle leaves are a delicious addition to thukpa, one has to be very careful when handling them. The plant can leave you with an ugly rash should you accidentally touch its spiny leaves. While this was well known to the locals, the invaders had no clue of this. They tried to sneak into the village while it was still dark.

Their leader was particularly distressed. He made an exasperated comment that ‘if the plants here are so feisty, imagine how dangerous the people might be’. No sooner had he made this remark, his men turned back and beat a hasty retreat. He was left with little choice but to follow them, even as he was struggling to soothe his itch. The men went back and narrated the incident after which their headman decided that it was best to leave Lahaul and go looking for a less challenging place to conquer.

The villagers of Gushal woke up completely unaware of what had transpired in the early hours of that morning. Life seemed normal, as usual. Little did they know that their stubborn nettle army had bravely diffused the plans of invaders who were eyeing their beautiful valley.

  • Chandrabhaga river, also known as Chenab, emerges from the confluence of the waters emerging from the Chandra and Bhaga valleys of Lahaul. Their confluence is at Tandi in Lahaul.
  • Gushal is a beautiful village on the banks of the Chandra in Lahaul.
  • Stinging nettle is a plant variety that grows widely across the world, including the Himalaya. It is known to possess several medicinal values. It is also famous for causing burning sensation of skin when accidentally touched.
  • Thukpa is a Tibetan noodle soup, which is prepared and relished in several Himalayan regions including Ladakh, Lahaul and Spiti.
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Khirav Gompo Dorje
Illustration: Nawang Tankhe

Khirav Gompo Dorje

Gompo Dorje was a spirited man. He was a keen hunter. An ace at taking down mountain animals like bharal and ibex – a single hunt could see him through several days. He had grown up watching snow leopards sneak up on their prey while mounting an attack. He used a similar technique to hunt, the only exception being that he used his bow and arrow to take his prey by surprise. He had walked the vast valleys hunting prey and lived alone at the edge of Kibber. People of Kibber called him Khirav Gompo Dorje – Khirav meant hunter – in acknowledgement of his knowledge of the wild and his superior hunting skills.

Khirav Gompo Dorje preferred his own company. He did have one curious habit though – each time he hunted an animal, he would divide it in four equal parts. He would unfailingly offer one part to a revered Lama who meditated in a cave at Bandi-Farah nallah. This cave was at the edge of a cliff face. Not one for the faint hearted. One false step and you risked tumbling down the deep gorge on top of which the cave was situated. Few had the courage to get to this cave to seek the Lama’s blessings. Sturdy and surefooted, Gompo Dorje was the Lama’s most frequent visitor. He would leave his offering of meat at the entrance of the cave and leave. The Lama would accept this offering and leave the bones at the entrance of the cave after consuming the meat.

Illustration: Nawang Tankhe

This routine had gone on for many years. But our lives witness change just as the seasons for a bountiful spring is often followed by a harsh winter. Gompo Dorje too hit a rough patch. Days turned to weeks as he struggled to hunt down a meal. Not even a wooly hare, which he might otherwise have ignored. He wondered what could be done. Suddenly, it struck him! Maybe he ought to meet the Lama and seek his blessings to pull through this difficult phase.

​

Though he hadn’t eaten in days, he made the long, treacherous walk to the Lama’s cave. At the entrance of the cave, he caught sight of all the bones the Lama had disposed off. Bones everywhere! It felt like someone had woven a mat out of bones and laid it at the entrance. It occurred to him that he had consumed a lot more than the Lama had. How could he?! He was overcome with grief. Gompo Dorje didn’t think twice before jumping off the ledge in remorse. Mountain people believe that when one truly sheds the weight of one’s misdeeds, they are set on the path of salvation. Gompo Dorje was seen flying high, onwards into a different realm.

Illustration: Nawang Tankhe

The Lama observed this episode from his seat in the cave. A thought crossed his mind. If a lowly hunter could find the path to salvation, surely someone of his stature who had lived an austere life, deserved it more. He got up from his seat and jumped off the ledge. But nothing is heavier than one’s inflated ego. Lama tumbled down the deep gorge, never to be seen again.

  • Bharal a is Himalayan wild sheep with a bluish coat and backward-curving horns.
  • Ibex is a wild mountain goat with long, thick ridged horns and a beard, found in parts of Lahaul and Spiti, including Pin Valley.
  • Kibber is a village in Spiti valley which was previously an important center of trade and activity.
  • Lama is a buddhist monk.
  • Bandi-Farah is a beautiful gorge near Kibber. Khirav Gompo Dorje’s cave is still visible from this place.
  • Wooly hare is a shy and usually solitary animal, and although sometimes active by day, it is mostly nocturnal.
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