The first bus to Spiti
Losar is the first village of Spiti valley which is located in the high Himalaya. You have to cross two high mountain passes to reach Losar. Getting here in winter is impossible because heavy snowfall blocks the roads across the passes. People only traveled in and out of Losar in summer. Heavy winter snowfall kept Losar, and the rest of Spiti, isolated for many months in a year. Winters were usually long and uneventful. But that year was different. Everyone had spent winter in anticipation. Everyone was excited for the new bus service that was going to start from Manali to Spiti in summer. Until then, only a few men had traveled outside the valley for trade. Horses were the preferred mode of travel and almost no one had seen a motor vehicle.
Everyone was talking about the bus. That it would cover the steep climb up and down the mountain passes in a matter of hours, carrying 42 adults! What sort of a beast could carry such a heavy load and run so fast? This had remained a topic of discussion across Spiti, and especially Losar. Someone suggested that this beast had six legs and galloped faster than the fastest horse, while another said that it had the strength of 10 mules. And its eyes light up the mountain like the moon on a full moon night, said one of the better-traveled locals. The entire valley was wrapped in curiosity.
The long wait came to an end when the sun changed its direction marking the start of summer. It took several weeks to clear the snow over the passes. Word finally came that the bus service would start in two days. Losar would have the distinction of welcoming the first bus to Spiti. The entire village got busy. The men were decorating the village gate - an honor otherwise reserved to welcome a respected Rinpoche. The women took a break from the agricultural fields to prepare a feast to mark the historic day. Even the school was called off, so that children could take part in the celebrations.
People lined up to welcome the first bus with an Aashi in their hands. Everyone heard the bus before they saw it. The resounding humm of the diesel engine was met with loud cheers. And then, the bus came into sight. It chugged along the bumpy road. Everyone stood hypnotized seeing this enormous beast. No one moved. The bus came to a grinding halt after crossing the decorated village gate. Everyone moved forward skeptically to examine the bus. Some touched the body of the bus, others were fascinated by the windows and doors, a few observed from a distance lest the bus land a kick like some irritated horses do. The driver and conductor got off and were given a hero’s welcome. As the excitement gradually faded, people began to move towards the area where the food was being served.
As soon as the crowd vanished, Eve Ning Gemo lumbered out of her house. This kind, old lady was carrying a load of fodder in her hands. She walked up to the bus and laid out the fodder before the bus. Then, looking up lovingly she patted the bus and said, “You must be very tired. These youngsters have no heart. They all cheered as you strode in and then left to eat without even feeding you anything. But don’t you worry, I am here. I have brought you fresh fodder. Eat as much as you wish.”
Eve continued to pat the bus tenderly, waiting patiently for the bus to start eating the fodder she had laid before it.
Spiti valley is a high-altitude region of the Himalaya, located in the north-eastern part of the northern Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. It is one of the most remote areas of India.
Rinpoche is a title in Tibetan Buddhism to address a respected and highly trained spiritual teacher or master.
Aashi (also referred to as Khata or Khatag) is a white scarf offered as a mark of respect in the Himalayan region. It is usually offered to revered monks and very special guests.
Eve is a title used by everyone to refer to their grandma or an elderly lady in Spiti.