Birth of the Chandra river
It is fairly well known that Gaddi herders from Kangra spend summer in the rich pastures of Lahaul. This is an annual migratory route that the Gaddi community have accessed for generations. They camp in the high mountain pastures. From a distance their life may seem idyllic – spending the day in the shadow of snow-clad peaks, breathing the crisp mountain air, basking in the soft summer sun. Unfortunately, the Gaddi’s dammed flock does not harbor such taste for a serene life in the mountains. All they care for is food! Each morning they bleat to be taken to a new slope where they can get their fill of fresh summer grass. And the poor Gaddi herder has to run behind them to make sure the flock remains safe, for a pesky wolf waiting to feast on the flock is almost never very far. Summer days are very long. But as dusk sets in, the Gaddi gets some rest.
It had only been a few years since Noopalal started accompanying his aged uncle and their flock. Their settlement was at the farthest end of Lahaul valley. It was so far that most herders had only heard of it. It was famous for a beautiful lake that had turquoise-blue water.
Noopalal was in-charge of the flock, while his old uncle stayed back and cooked for them. Every evening Noopalal would herd the flock and sit outside their thaach, which overlooked the lake. He would slowly pull out his flute and play it softly while his uncle smoked a pipe. Even though there was no one but his animals to listen, he played the flute because it gave him joy. On most days it would get dark by the time he finished. He would then crawl into the thaach, eat his meal, and retire for the day. This was the ritual he followed on most days until it all changed one night. The moon was full and when Noopalal finished playing his flute he looked mesmerized. As if he were possessed, as if someone had cast a spell on him. When he looked at the lake he saw a reflection of the full moon in its turquoise-blue water. He stood up in shock. "The moon has fallen in the lake", he whispered. "The moon is drowning. Help!" He yelled as he ran towards the lake. His old uncle barely registered anything, and by the time he did Noopalal had jumped into the icy cold water. His poor uncle ran behind him. But he could only watch helplessly. He remembered Noopalal shouting frantically that the moon is cracking, looking at the ripples on the surface of the water. By morning, both Noopalal and the moon were gone.
Did Noopalal sink with the moon that night? Maybe not. But many believe that the moon did, indeed, drown that night and the water that spilled over gave birth to the Chandra river. And the lake, Chandra tal, remains beautiful as ever. Especially on full moon nights. If you ever have the good fortune of spending a full moon’s night by Chandra tal, you might even hear Noopalal’s flute.
Gaddi herders are a semi-pastoral tribe that rear sheep and goat. Some of the sturdiest men and women, the Gaddis travel for 10-11 months with their livestock covering a vast distance across the Himalaya and her lower plains.
Kangra is a Himalayan region from where the Gaddi herders hail. It is also a district in the State of Himachal Pradesh.
Lahaul is another remote Himalayan valley that can be reached after crossing the Rohtang pass. Lahaul valley is adjacent to Spiti valley and together Lahaul-Spiti forms the biggest district of Himachal Pradesh.
Thaach is a stone hut that gaddi herders live inside in places where they camp. These stone huts are old and beautifully built by stacking stones. They protect the herders from rough weather.
Chandra river rises from the snow lying at the base of the main Himalayan range in the Lahaul and Spiti district. The beautiful Chandra Tal has formed at its source.
Chandra tal is a beautiful high-altitude lake known for its beauty. It is also a very beautiful site to watch water birds. It is a mythologically important site.